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Showing posts with label pants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pants. Show all posts

06 April 2014

First SWAP pair: Vogue 8751 pants and Vogue 7903 blouse

So here is the first outfit that I completed as part of my Stitchers' Guild 2014 SWAP plan. It's a silk blouse and wide leg trousers in a woolen herringbone.

The blouse is Vogue 7903 by Sandra Betzina and the trousers are Vogue 8751.

I have made this blouse before in the short sleeved version so I don't have anything new to say about the pattern. This time, my fabric is silk georgette and I didn't want it too fitted so I didn't make all six waist darts at front, I only made two. The only other change I made was bringing the shoulder point up by ±1cm (no change to the sleeve itself). Funny how different the same pattern looks when it is made in a totally different fabric!

The trousers, I first saw them on the lovely Ruth of Core Couture. After seeing hers, I immediately went and ordered this pattern, foolishly forgetting that she is much taller and leggier than I am. Once I was ready to start sewing them, I luckily realized that I needed to make a muslin to see how they fit my body type. Us pears, we cannot just wear any kind of trouser...

And indeed, from the muslin I decided that the pant legs were too wide for me. I tried on my favorite trousers for comparison and the legs are narrower by 8cm at the hem!

So that's what I did, tapered each side of each pant leg by 2cm giving me 8cm less all around and I do like the proportions better on my body shape.

Now here is the funny thing about this pattern. I typically have to make a 1.5cm swayback adjustment, but not with this pattern. I'm not sure why not, but the back looked perfect just "out of the box". I'm guessing that the yoke pattern pieces are somehow responsible, but I am not sure how exactly.

Anyway, I don't often wear pants because I haven't found many that fit, but this one does so it is a welcome addition to my wardrobe! Oh and my review of Vogue 8751 is here at Pattern Review.

11 February 2012

Purple pants: Vogue 2163 by Bill Blass

I am Lucia. I am a fabricholic. I buy and I buy and I never finish anything. Here is to changing that.



Having a true pear shape means that it is nearly impossible to find pants that fit me. Most ready to wear pants that fit my thighs and hip are enormous at the waist. The "curvy" styles from the Gap and Ann Taylor are a much better approximation to my shape and so that is all I ever wear. As a teenager I sewed a couple of pants that were okay, but I remember having to make adjustments to the waist.



Because of all these problems, for the last year or so I've moved to wearing mostly dresses and skirts to work. Only in the weekend do I wear my trusty Ann Taylor boot-cut jeans.

Now that I am older and have gained some weight around my middle I've been thinking that I should try again to make a pair of pants again since I probably won't have to make any waist adjustments anymore.

To match the zig-zag fur jacket that I'm making I bought a wool blend twill in the same hard-to-match greyple (grey and purple) color. I always had in mind a very simple pair of slacks to offset the jazzy zig-zag fur, and that is just what I found in Vogue 2163 by Bill Blass: no waistband, darts at front and back,  and back pockets which I skipped.



I cut size 16 and in the muslin I needed no alterations at all! Wooohooo! Unfortunately I cut the fabric before Christmas and took a long time to sew the pants. I only finished them last week (early February) and now they are too tight! Too much snacking and holiday spirit... Ugh! Oh well, the wool is lightweight and the zig-zag fur jacket won't be really warm either, so this is more a Spring ensemble. Let's hope by then I have gotten rid of that extra weight...

BTW, I also made the top. It is Vogue 2980 by Sandra Betzina.
 My pattern review for Vogue 2163 by Bill Blass below and at Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:
Loose-fitting, interfaced, lined, below hip jacket has collar, shoulder pads, pockets, side panels, no side seams and long, two-piece sleeves with button vent. Fitted, straight, lined pants have contour waist, welt pockets and back zipper.

Difficulty rating is Average.

This review is for the pants only.

Pattern Sizing:
14-16-18. I cut size 16.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the gros-grain ribbon facing instead of a waistband. This keeps the bulk at the waist to a minimum. 

Fabric Used:
Lightweight wool-blend twill.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I removed the welt pockets at back. Without those pockets this is an ideal pants pattern for beginners. I also lengthened the pants by 2 inches. I made no other significant modifications.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and yes.

Conclusion:
I definitely plan to make these pants again and I do recommend it to everyone who wants a pair of basic slacks.